Gozo: The Complete Travel Guide

Many tourists visit Gozo for one day — tick off the Citadel, maybe the Blue Lagoon, and take the ferry back. That is a mistake. Gozo is a place where you need to slow down, spend a night, and feel a completely different rhythm of life.

How to Get There

Take the ferry from Ċirkewwa (north-west Malta) to Mġarr harbour on Gozo. The crossing takes about 25 minutes. Price: approx. €4.65 return for foot passengers. Ferries run 24 hours a day.

What to See — Beyond the Obvious

• The Citadel (Il-Kastell) in Victoria: An ancient hilltop fortress. Entry to the ramparts is free and gives panoramic views of all of Gozo. Historically, all islanders would shelter here during pirate raids.
• Wied il-Ghasri: A sea-filled gorge that looks like a miniature fjord. Stone steps lead down to a small beach with turquoise water. Almost nobody goes there.
• Ta' Pinu Basilica: A solitary church standing alone in the fields. It looks like it belongs in Italy. Inside, a wall filled with votive offerings: plaster casts, crutches, handwritten letters. Unexpectedly moving.
• Sanap Cliffs: Less famous than the Dingli Cliffs on Malta but more beautiful. Sunset here is breathtaking.
• Xwejni Salt Pans: Salt pans carved into the rock by fishermen generations ago. From above, they look like a chessboard. Near Marsalforn.
• Ramla Bay: The most beautiful beach in the entire archipelago. Rust-red sand, emerald water, genuine peace. Unlike anything on Malta.

Getting Around

Buses exist on Gozo but run infrequently. To really explore the island, rent a car (you can drive it onto the ferry from Malta) or a quad bike. Quads are hugely popular on Gozo and make exploring the winding roads a genuine pleasure.

Where to Eat

• Mekren Bakery (Nadur): A bakery, not a restaurant. Buy a pizza or Ftira to go and eat on a bench with views over the fields. The dough is thick, rustic, and delicious.
• Oleander (Żebbuġ): A tiny bar serving home-cooked food. There is no menu — you ask what is available. Always good.